| Location: Perpignan France |
|
|
They settled down into
their exit row seats on the Boeing 767 bound to New York from St. Thomas,
US Virgin Islands. The exit row was an unexpected surprise because on
every one of the last 31 flight segments, they had asked for, but never
received the exit row. The business class seat spacing was much
appreciated. It was a long flight, nearly 6 hours from St. Thomas to New
York but it was only the first in two legs that they would fly to Paris.
The flight was crowed for a midweek flight, mostly families with children,
and some businessmen. It was an unadventurous flight and they whiled away
the hours. K2 was reading Herman Wouk’s “Don’t Stop the Carnival”
about life in the Caribbean. Kim was updating their travel log. Both were
a bit worn out from the three days of racing in the Rolex Cup, but it was
worth the effort and new friends made. |
|
Landing in New York was
uneventful and after an hour and half of ground time the continuing flight
from to Paris was airborne. The seats for this flight were not as good as
the previous flight, but they had a two-seat row so not all was lost.
Across the isle was a French speaking family with a young child seated
between them. It was a bit of wait on the taxiway, and just about the time
they plane rolled on to the runway, the child started fidgeting and
crying. The crying continued unabated until the plane reached cruising
altitude 20 minutes and 35,000 feet later. The crying child was spent and
slept the remainder of the flight. On
the last flight, the attendants had collect $5 for headphones for
in-flight entertainment. K2 and Kim kept the headphones, but on this
flight they found another set in the seat backs. Every flight is
different, even when flying on the same airline. |
|
|
The next morning they
arrived in Paris. Sleepy and groggy they passed through customs without
the usual problems they experienced in the US. Since K2 was a Canadian,
every time they entered the US, the customs would ask K2 countless
questions about how long she was staying, where she worked, where she
lived. Answering these questions was at best problematic. But they had
learned to answer as truthfully as possible without causing reason for
immigration to detain them as had happened previously. In Paris, a simple
comparison of our passport picture sufficed, and K2 and Kim passed through
customs with 3 bottles of Cruzan Rum for the crew at the factory. |
|
|
They still had to get
from Paris to Perpignan in the south of France where their sailboat was
being build. Unfortunately their continuing flight was on AOM airlines in
Paris ORLY airport 40 miles south of Charles DeGaule. After scooping out
the airport they discovered that Air France ran a shuttle bus and 40
minutes later they were headed south on to ORLY. It was a 3-hour wait in
ORLY for the AOM flight to Perpignan. Around 3:30 they touched down in
Perpignan and drove a short distance to Canet en Roussillon where the
Catana factory and their hotel was. Exhausted and jet lagged they
collapsed on the bed. |
|
|
They slept the sleep of
the dead and despite their growing hunger they continued to sleep. The
hours passed and around 9 am local time they started to stir. Kim called
the Catana factory and made an appointment to meet their representative
Christophe Gallot-Lavallee at 2pm. Lunch in France take on epic
significance and meetings never occur between the hours of noon and 2.
With time to spare, K2 and Kim headed out for their first real meal in
France. Sure they had airline meals, but eating airline food was a bit
like eating Chinese food. Eat once and 30 minutes later you’re hungry
again. |
|
|
With time on their hands
they drove to the Catana factory in the Hertz rental, a bright blue
Peugeot “Bic pen branded” compact sedan. It was accessorized with a
number of Bic pen like features, but a real Bic pen was not to be found.
The factory was a surprise to them. Where there had been one large
rectangular steel sided building, now there were two, and a cluster of
temporary offices set between them. There was the usual collection of
Catana yachts sitting at the dock, but the most noticeable was a new red
472 that sat oddly stern low in the water. They took a short walk out to
the dock to look more closely at the 472. The reason for the low setting
stern was a Jet Ski was slung on an articulated structure bolted to the
underside of the bridge deck. Clearly the Jet Ski was much to heavy for
the boat. |
|
|
After the factory,
hunger was really setting in and they drove a short distance to Canet en
Plague, or Canet on the Beach for lunch. The last time that they had been
to Canet it was out of season and most hotel and restaurants were closed.
Being April not much has changed since last November except that it much
warmer. The population was some what divided about this however, since
half the people were wearing overcoats and the other half had shorts and
t-shirts. The locals were probably wearing the overcoats and tourist the
shorts. |
|
|
Canet en Plague is a
modern French beach resort with 6 to 10 story building rising up from the
road that fronts the beach. It’s tacky and without character unlike the
older fishing villages scattered up and down the coast. There was not much
choice in restaurants so they headed to the place that they ate last
November. It was a quiet corner restaurant with an awning-covered patio
filled with wrought-iron chairs and tables. Probably a pleasant place in
the summer, but in the cool breeze of April they headed in doors. After
decoding the French menu K2 decided on a cheese and onion pizza and Kim
ordered spaghetti carbonara. The restaurant was mostly deserted except for
one older couple with two small children. They were much to old for these
children to be their own and K&K guessed that they were grandparents.
The children were amazingly well behaved and quietly entertained
themselves while the grandparents ate their seafood extravaganza. The
platter was pilled high with ice upon which rested crayfish, shrimp and
clams. Some of the crayfish were speared with long bamboo sticks and
arranged like a bouquet of flowers upright on the ice. |
|
|
With lunch over, they
ambled outside and wandered the town for a bit. With everything closed for
lunch, there was not much to see. So they headed back to the Peugeot and
took a driving tour of the small harbor that encircled the north end of
the town. The neatly arranged harbor was filled with a smattering of small
sail and motorboats. It was as quiet as the rest of the town. Most of the
apartments still had their roll down shutters in place and a deserted
feeling permeated the place. They continued their drive and ended up at
the factory just in time for their appointment. The parking lot was empty
which meant that most of the staff was still out to lunch but the front
reception room was open and the English speaking reception greeted them.
It was a short wait as they went through the stack of French magazine
excerpts on Catana yachts. |
|
Christophe greeted them
a short while later and apologized for the wait. In the recent growth of
Catana more had changed then the number of building. With increased
production meant increased customer contact and Christophe was one of the
new kids on the block to manage new customer accounts. His father owned
hull #1 of the 471-line and was having a 581 build. He was also a
principal of the business. Maybe this would mean that their boat would get
additional oversight. Only time would tell. Christophe took them on a tour
of the factory and showed them the beginnings of their catamaran. Outside
the original factory building the deck was sitting on 4 stands about waist
high off. It had just come out of the mold the day before and been turned
over that morning. The deck without any of the windows cut out appeared to
belong to secret space project. They were thrilled, and all of a sudden it
seemed real to them. Kim and K2 had talked endlessly about the boat, and
it seemed the more they talked, the less real it was. But this was the
real thing. The deck of the boat was standing just in front of them as
real as each other. Kim ducked under the deck and the liner had all ready
been bonded to the deck. It was still hard for him to imagine that this
was the beginning of their boat. |
|
| They walked past the original building. It was steel
framed and sided industrial building about 100 feet wide and 400 feet long
and 30 feet high. Along the south long side was a set of floor to roof
sliding doors that allowed them to move whole catamarans in and out. On
the north side was the new building. It was built to the same dimensions
and between the two were 6 small temporary office building that looked
like FEMA trailers. As they
entered the door on the short side of the new building they saw 3 large
moulds or tools where catamaran hulls were being built. The tools were the
center bridge deck and the inside of the each hull. It looked like a huge
saddle, one large enough for the Trojan horse perhaps.
The first one they came to was a 581, Christophe fathers new boat.
The next was theirs. The gel coat and fiberglass had already been laid
down and the workers were preparing to bond the ridged foam to glass. If
the deck was the spark of realization, then the hull was the fire. Kim and
K2 wandered around the hulls and took pictures. Christophe explained the
remaining procedures to finish off the hulls as they walked around. As
they came around the backside, the two outside hulls came into view. They
were in the same stage as the center. Once the foam and inside laminates
had been bonded, the outside hulls would be aligned to center saddle. Then
the center seam between the inside and outside hull would be built up with
almost 1 inch of fiberglass. |
|
|
They concluded the tour
of the factory and headed out to look at the new 472, the one sitting
stern low in the water. As they approached, Christophe explained the
problem with hanging so much weight on the stern of the boat. But to Kim
and K2 no explanation was necessary. Both had raced in Transpac and
VicMaui and knew how weight affected any boat, let alone badly positioned
weight. But the owner had insisted, and Catana warned, but complied with
the owner’s wishes. They designed the Jet Ski platform to lower 18”
under the water so the Jet Ski could be driven right on to the platform.
Even though the Jet Ski was a horrendous addition to such a fine yacht
there were pearls to be found here. As soon as they stepped on board they
fell in love with the cockpit table. It was square and folded diagonally
across the corner to reveal dink holders. To their eyes it was much
cleaner and practical then the folding leaf teak table normally supplied.
They had to have it. The other item was the swim ladder on the port hull.
This normally just folds up and makes the port stern awkward to move
around on. On the 472, the ladder neatly folds into a recess on the stern
– another must have. When they entered the salon they were starting to
think that they ordered the wrong boat. Besides the varnished cherry, the
interior design was pleasing and showed many refinements that made since.
The owner had made changes that they did not like, but as a whole it was a
very pleasant boat. |
|
|
With a sigh they started
toward Christophe’s office in one of the temporary buildings. There were
many details to go over. Christophe got out the contract and the latest
addendums and started down the list one after another. Even with his
excellent English it was still necessary to revert to pictures and
diagrams sketched on paper to make their points. After two hours of paper
work they were all tired. Kim and K2 had asked if it was possible to go
out on one of the 471’s at the dock. Christophe called around and
started to make arrangements. He said he would send email that night when
he knew better. They made arrangement to meet the next afternoon to wrap
up the review. With business concluded Kim and K2 headed for the rental
car, but first they took one last peek in the new building at their hull. |
|
| Back at the hotel, they both collapsed from
fatigue and jetlag. They didn’t wake till 8pm and after a shower headed
downstairs to the quaint restaurant that was part of the hotel. The owner
greeted them in English and gave them their choice of table. They settled
into the main room with a huge tiled fireplace on one end. The tile was a
broken mosaic of earthly colors and mimicked the fireplace. At the bottom
of the fireplace opening were blacks and reds and around each side blacks
gave way to reds and yellows. It was as if Gaudy himself had designed the
room. The owner came over after they had been at work decoding the French
menu. Many of the item were specialties of the Catalan region, seafood,
pig cheeks and ducks livers. Finally they came to a beef filet that peaked
their interest. They decided to share both the salad and the main course.
In their last visit the food seemed so rich that splitting a main course
was the best way to keep from over eating. The owner suggested a find
local red wine. When the beef filet arrive K2 nearly swooned from the
aroma wafting off the plate. The first taste of the tender meat confirmed
the olfactory responses. Wafer thin potatoes with a light cheese sauce
were served on the side. These too melted in their mouth. They savored
every bite and before they wanted, the meal was finished. |
| The waiter brought over the dessert menu, and it too was
filled with earthly delights. It was so tempting that K2 and Kim each
ordered their own dessert. The waiter changed the table’s silver. Kim
received a dessert fork and spoon, while K2 was given a dessert fork,
spoon and knife. The knife part surprised them both and they waited in
anticipation. It was if the main course was simply the appetizer for
dessert. When the waiter arrived a reverence filled the room as Kim and K2
gazed at their treats. Kim’s dessert arrived in a shallow large bowl
with a rich and thick chocolate sauce surrounding two pistachio macaroons.
K2’s dessert was a tower of three balls of chocolate mousse
separated by chocolate paper-thin sugar-wafers stacked: chocolate mousse,
chocolate wafer for three layers. They ate the delicacies with passion,
savoring every bite. With their bellies full they walked back up to their
room and collapsed |
|