Issue 6 -March 23, 2000

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We landed in San Juan Puerto Rico at 7:35 local time, 4 hours difference from Pacific Time. It was dusk as we touched down. The last rays of the sun melted into a band of dark orange in the southwest horizon. From the air it seems like any other North American city. There were McDonalds and KFC, shopping centers with Wal-Mart, Sears, and K-Mart line along 4 lane highways bright with lights and cars. The airport is modern and clean; the only notable difference was the absence of greeting visitors at the arrival desk. We picked our baggage up and met Dean the owner of “Thanks Larry” after we had our baggage claim checks verified against our bags. As we left the building, suddenly it struck me. I was in Puerto Rico. The warm damp air caressed me in the face. It was soft, warm and gentle. Slowly the dry conditioned air of the buildings left my clothes and the warm dampness was everywhere. I was experiencing environmental jet lag, later would come the time and cultural lag as well.

 

We introduced ourselves and went over the usual pleasantries then headed toward the multistory parking garage. The garage was large and mostly empty, and where the elevators should have been plywood and railing was nailed in place. We took the stairs and soon were driving amongst the McDonalds, KFC and shopping centers. There was a difference though – many signs were in Spanish, but many were in English as well. It was if an uneasy truce had been called.  We dove among the North American strip mall landscape for a long while. It slowly dissolved behind us until only a scattering of lights and business were around. The parking lot for the harbor had a guard posted, and after a brief look in the car he opened the gate and we drove up the new looking but not greatly maintained buildings of the harbor. This is the harbor where the Heineken Cup Regatta will be run – this weekend it will come alive - but right now it is a very sleepy place.

 

Dean parked the car and in the bathroom K2 and I changed from long pants to shorts and deck shoes. We made our way out past dark concrete piers filled with sail and powerboats of all description. There seem to be an even match of both, but the sailboats seemed more prominent with their mast sticking high in the air. All was quite, almost sleepy as we walk among the resting vessels. One turn to the left and another long walk and we found ourselves at the end of the finger pier preparing to board a dingy for a ride across the bay to where “Thanks Larry” was moored.

 

Dean handed me a small GPS, K2 got out her headlamp. We boarded the hard bottom inflatable, with K2 on the forward seat being the navigation and headlight. Dean was at the stern at the controls of the 15 hp Yamaha outboard and I was sitting in the center holding the GPS. We quietly motored out of the harbor and soon were up on plane speeding across the smooth water into the dark horizon. I reached down into the inky blackness of water and found warmness surrounding my hand. Why is it so surprising that the water is warm? Just more environmental jetlag I suppose. Along the way Dean occasionally referenced the GPS and pointed out the reefs that were navigating around. In 15 minutes we were slowing down to motor into the harbor where our home for the next 20 days would be. 

 

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